YAMAHA OUTBOARD SOLUTIONS
YAMAHA OUTBOARD SOLUTIONS
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  • Cyl. Head Do's & Don'ts
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  • BEFORE AND AFTER REPAIRS
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    • Home
    • Shop
    • Cyl. Head Do's & Don'ts
    • Machine Shop services
    • BEFORE AND AFTER REPAIRS
  • Home
  • Shop
  • Cyl. Head Do's & Don'ts
  • Machine Shop services
  • BEFORE AND AFTER REPAIRS

COMPONENTS-WHAT TO NEVER REUSE AND WHY

Lets start with marine vs automotive.

  • Automotive -has a transmission avg rpm range 1500-2500
  • Marine -no transmission avg rpm range 800-6000 rpm
  • Automotive-very controlled cooling system radiator/fan/antifreeze
  • Marine-raw sea water cooling, summer in FL seawater is 88 deg F or higher Winter/65 deg F ,not so controlled
  • Automotive-has an air filter and breathes fresh air
  • Marine-has no air filter and breathes moist salt air
  • Automotive-very long exhaust pipe-protected from the elements
  • Marine- has a wet salty exhaust 6-8 inches from the bottom cylinders valves
  • The point is that 4-stroke outboards run in a much more extreme environment than automotive and can not be rebuilt with the same practices as automotive.
  • I'm referring to facing and reusing valves.

Why you should replace valves,springs and seals every time

You are after reliability,and used seals, rusty valves ,and springs are not reliable.So here are the basics to rebuilding a Yamaha outboards cylinder head.Seals, well that's obvious they don't cost much,replace them.Springs, 2 reasons, #1 a spring that has run an average of 3500 rpm for 500 hrs has compressed and relaxed approx. 105 million times,this is a cruising rpm and a low hour engine,metal fatigues and fractures. #2 more than likely the head is being overhauled because it corroded,passing water into the cylinder and engine oil causing rust and pitting,pitting on a spring creates a stress riser (weak point) and causes the spring to break and drop the valve into the cylinder now you have major damage over a $10.00 spring.

Valves,its not just the face we are worried about it's the entire head ,neck and stem between the combustion chamber and valve guide,especially the exhaust valve ,this valve has to endure all the heat and corrosion from exhaust gasses and salt water intrusion, all of these factors cause pitting on the face ,neck and stem, again creating a weak point and causing the valve head to break off and drop onto the piston. Another thing to think about is Yamaha 4-stroke valve stems are only 5-6 mm in diameter and are always under spring tension, any pitting will cause a catastrophic  failure. And at last the intake valve. Many people don't replace them,they are under the impression that they stay cool and don't live in a corrosive environment. In automotive this is a true statement but not marine, yes they stay cool, however the intake valve is exposed to everything that comes in the intake such as corrosive salt air, corrosive fuel blends ,and saltwater from an external leak, like a hole in the thermostat portion of the engine block.Facing valves is a very normal and acceptable practice in an automotive machine shop but not so much in marine

Basics to rebuilding a Yamaha outboards cylinder head

 The only  way to guarantee your cylinder heads are reliable is to replace all three of those components every time,for those of you that run off shore 75-100 miles you will be so glad you didn't cut corners.

STEP # 1 -THE FAILED HEAD AND CAUSE OF FAILURE

This part will address the question that I get the most. My 4-stroke outboard ran great 2 weeks ago

  • The answer is obvious corrosion but where and why-not so obvious.
  • Midsection rot
  • Block or water jacket rot in the heads
  • Those are the where's
  • Here are the why's
  • The engine is mounted too low on the transom
  • The driver chops the throttle every time he stops
  •  Not running the engine when you flush it
  • High exhaust temps from lack of maintaining the water pump or in the case of flats boats trimming and jacking up to run really shallow
  • Or it could just be a dirty casting which is just bad luck

how to save thousands and prevent down time

Simple maintenance is the key

  • LIFT YOUR HOOD BEFORE AND AFTER EVERY TRIP !!!!!!!!!!
  • Look for water leaks.
  • Yamaha is famous for rotten thermostat housings that spray down the entire powerhead with salt water because they tell people not to run the engine when they flush it, this is crazy!!! If you don't run it the ice cold water slams the thermostats shut and you flush nothing then your block rots out and 2 weeks from then you hit the key and get a click. RUN YOUR OUTBOARD WHEN YOU FLUSH IT.
  • Check your oil not necessarily the level but the color .
  • AMBER IS GOOD
  • BLACK IS GOOD-BUT CHANGE IT
  • WHITE ,CLOUDY ,OR MILKY IS BAD-But you are not out of the race you have 2-3 days before everything turns to rust.
  • Check your oil after every trip, not only will you be ready for the next trip but you will know if something cut loose and put water in your oil, this costs thousands if not caught right away, if your oil turns white call your mechanic right away it might just be a corroded cyl. head, fix the head and flush the engine and you are running again, but if you don't catch it your motor will lock up and again CLICK on the next trip.
  • TO BE CONTINUED